Installation Instructions for
Gorden Threshing Bars
Shift rotor drive gearbox into neutral. Lower the three concaves to gain access to the rotor. Do not run or turn separator with concaves lowered, as they will jam the shoe supply augers and damage may result.
To avoid stripping the bolt heads, use only a Six Point three-quarter-inch (3/4") socket. Not all impact sockets fit the recessed holes in the bar. A Snap-On socket number IMFS240 is one that is known to fit. Remove the existing rasp bars from the pedestals where the Gorden Rotor Bars will be installed. Use the new bolts that are provided to install new bars. Do not exceed a torque of 80 foot pounds.
Some of the bar pedestals may not be positioned exactly the same distance apart, so the bolt holes may not line up perfectly. If you find a hole that will not allow a bolt to freely drop in, it must be drilled out. On rotors with pressed in threaded inserts, remove existing bar, thread bolt back into insert and then hammer insert out by striking bolt head. If a balancing weight is in the path of a new bar, it must be removed. Insert a mounting bolt in front bar hole and use a one-half-inch (1/2") drill bit to ream out any misalignment of the rear hole. Bolt all bars in place according to the pattern that you choose. It is recommended that the bars be installed around, beginning from the front, and continued until all available bars are installed.
On the 80 series (except AFX), start by placing four (4) bars around and beginning at the first row of pedestals on the front end of the rotor. On the 40, 60 or 70 series, install three (3) bars around and beginning at the first row of pedestals on the front end of the rotor. The AFX has a row of pedestals forward of the first concave. Leave the four bars around on this row. Each Gorden bar uses pedestals paired according to these rows, counting from the front: For the Specialty Rotor, use rows 1 & 3, 2 & 4, 5 & 7, 6 & 8, leave specialty bars on row 9, then skip to rows 10 & 12. Click Here For Layout: 60-66 or 80-88. For the 8010 AFX, see this layout chart: 8010 AFX
In order to check rotor balance, crop debris must be removed from the rotor. Shift rotor gearbox into neutral. Rotate rotor by hand and check for balance. Cow magnets work well for temporary weight. When you think you have the rotor in balance, give it a nudge so that it coasts an inch or two at a time. If at any point the rotor speeds up, or slows down and rolls back, it is still out of balance. Whenever the heavy point is turned to the side position, 3 or 9 oclock, it will be the most sensitive, because it will exert the greatest leverage. When the heavy side is determined, choose the proper amount of weight to weld to opposite side. Weld weight behind a front row pedestal in a place that will balance the rotor.
After the rotor is balanced, raise the concaves and bolt them back into their proper position. Check and adjust concave leveling per the operators manual. Reset concave clearance limits as close as possible, but do not allow the "high bar" to contact concave. Rotate the rotor by hand to assure that none of the bars contact concave.
Next shift the rotor gearbox into high gear. Run separator at full speed with the rotor set at maximum speed to check for rotor vibration. Bare in mind that other items can cause vibration, besides an out of balance rotor. Removing drive belts and running the rest of the machine can isolate straw chopper or beater vibration. Also, for example, a rotor drive belt that has once slipped may have a slight flat spot on it. A flat spot will cause a vibration when operated at the high-speed end of variable drive limit. You can determine this by shifting the rotor into neutral and varying speed. If the vibration diminishes when you slow the drive down, with the rotor in neutral, most likely the belt has a flat spot.
If the rotor runs smoothly, the installation is complete.
If you encounter any installation or operational problems, please call.
Gorden Harvesting Equipment
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